Near Shore Wave Prediction System (NWPS) Output

Heavy Rainfall in the East Wednesday; Hot Temperatures Continue in Coastal Southern California

Heavy to excessive rainfall may lead to flooding Wednesday over southwest Pennsylvania into northern West Virginia, and western Maryland. Flood Watches have been issued. An extended period of hot weather will continue for parts of coastal southern California including Los Angeles through Thursday. Heat Advisories remain in effect. Read More >

These models forecasts are produced by WFO Wakefield, VA using the NWPS wave models and the Real Time Ocean Forecast System

The NWPS output is used as guidance to produce WFO Wakefield. It is only experimental and it may differ from the official forecast. For the official marine forecast graphics go to : WFO AKQ Official Marine Forecast Graphics.

NWPS accounts for the following physics:

Wave propagation in time and space, shoaling, refraction due to current and depth, frequency shifting due to currents and non-stationary depth.

Wave generation by wind.

Three- and four-wave interactions.

Whitecapping, bottom friction and depth-induced breaking.

Dissipation.

Wave-induced set-up.

Propagation from laboratory up to global scales.

Transmission through and reflection (specular and diffuse) against obstacles.

Diffraction.

In here you will see 3-hourly forecast outputs for significant wave height, peak wave direction, peak wave period, and significant swell height (heights in feet and periods in seconds). Additionally, individual wave system heights, periods, and directions contributing to the significant wave heights are provided further below. In addition you will see the wind speed and direction used as input for the models. Our local version of NWPS also uses input from WAVEWATCH III for boundary conditions.

NOTE: Significant Swell Height output from NWPS is the average height of the highest 1/3 of the group of waves with periods of 10 secs or longer.